13 July 2015: Fierce easterly this morning must be blowing the ash westwards. Saw one AirAsia take off. Walked to third beach groyne deep into enemy territory — the Mercure beach park, the Sudamala hotel's dedicated, very serious, beach zone — and discovered the Pura Melanting Temple and a rather wonderful bamboo house. Sunrise is disappointing; however, Kadek of Karangasem — Flores stock, gorgeous skin, beauteous smile — quite lit up my morning